Rock Auto doesn't list a cap for the Cambridge. If you look up a later Plymouth 230 they list this cap and rotor as fitting. These also work on my 218. If you go to Standard's website it lists these parts as fitting.

It is always a good idea to compare the new parts to the old parts to make sure they are the proper parts. Old stuff on the left.

I removed the oil bath air cleaner and installed my vacuum gauge. You want to read manifold vacuum and there is no fitting on the carb I could use. There is a pipe plug on the manifold that I pulled, installed a fitting and connected my gauge.

Getting the pre adjustment dwell readings, spec is 34.5-38 degrees. Here we have too much dwell, 40.5 degrees.

Getting the pre adjustment RPM readings, spec is 450-500 rpm. In this case I kept the rpm at 600 as dropping below that makes my charging system turn off. Originally, this was closer to 1200 rpm, but I had already turned it down when I did the plugs.

Getting the pre adjustment vacuum readings. Higher is better and we are solidly in the middle of the green range, 20 in/hg. All readings taken warmed up.

Before we make any adjustment we need to inspect things and correct any deficientices

Here we are looking at the accelerator pump shot adjustment. It is set for cold weather (max shot), considering where I bought it from this was probably ok. For here we will use the middle spot. Look closely at the gaskets both above and below the lower section of the carb. If you think you see gaps you are correct. The carb has three sections, all were loose as was the mounting to the manifold. All of this needs correcting before adjustments are make. Be careful you don't have that hairpin clip fly away on you, fortunately I found it. Had I any spare hairpin clips it would not have flown off.

Here we have the points setup on the lobe of the cam, per the service manual. The book calls for a .020" gap here. It was was less than that, which explains the 40+ degrees of dwell we saw.

The service manual can be very useful. loosen the lock screw and you can rotate the adjusting screw to open or close the points. You want to set the points for a .020" gap with the points as wide open as they can be on the cam lobe.

.When adjusting the carb you want to set the idle speed first, then adjust the idle mixture screw (pictured), then check the speed and adjust if necessary. You will have to work back and forth till everything is settled and happy. You are shooting for max vacuum with a smooth idle, So listen to your engine, it is talking to you. Don't forget to check your timing as part of the go around, adjust as necessary.

Back when I redid the plug wires I made this note of what went where. Still useful and the nice thing about a note pad is that it's hard drive never fails.

The tune up specfications are littered throughout the service manual so I collected them up in a set of notes. The left column is the specs, right column is what I ended up with. I could not read the timing marks with the engine running, so the timing is a question mark for now, runs good with no ping. Idle speed is a bit high, but that's so the charging system works. At 500 rpm there is no real output, at 600 it's good.

Final check of dwell, rpm and vacuum levels. If you read the vacuum guide link above I am just under 2000 feet of elevation, running 21 in/hg.

As is normal with this car i ran into some issues, loose carb bolts, way high idle speed, timing marks you can't see. It's a journey. I plan to rebuild the carb and hang on to the extra hairpin clips in it.