This is what we started with. A leaky Carter BB atop a Plymouth 218. Original oil bath air cleaner filters the air going in, look at the carb insides and you will see it works pretty good.

Before we even start we need to know what we are doing. I have the carb rebuild kit, no instructions included but the manufacturer has them online. I also have a factory service manual and the internet for information. I will be using the terminology from the carb rebuild kit for the various parts.

We have removed the oil bath air cleaner, 1/2" wrench to remove the support brace. Next we will unclip the choke to carb link at the carb and unbolt the throttle linkage, 7/16" wrench needed.

Here you see the throttle linkage undone, put the attaching nut on so as to not lose it. Next will will remove the hardline in this picture, it 's for the vacuum advance on the distributor. Try not to bend it much so that it will reinstall easily. Use a 3/8" line wrench on the tube nut and a 7/16" wrench on the fitting it screws into. Hold the fitting in place as you loosen the tube nut. You can really see the carb base is wet from fuel here and that's because it leaks not because I spilled anything.

After removing the vacuum hardline we will remove the fuel hardline. This line comes up from the fuel pump and feeds the carb. Here we see I have a 9/16" open end wrench holding the fitting from turning and am using a 1/2" line wrench to loosen the tube nut on the fuel line.

Now that the carb is off the engine I put it in an old cake pan to contain any parts and fluids as we take it apart. I have removed the air horn in this picture. There are 4 screws holding the air horn on, remove them and not where they go. They are all the same size and they only fit the airhorn. Once the screws are removed and you pop the air horn off the main body of the carb you need to rotate the airhorn to unhook the choke connector rod. No further disassembly of the airhorn is left.

Here is the air horn flipped over. Match up the gasket with one in the kit and set it aside. No further disassembly is needed here, just remove the old gasket as best you can for now.

We've pulled the float out, the U shaped spring is the retainer, it should come out by pulling straight up, the the float and float pin can then come out. You may need to pull the fuel inlet fitting and needle out for the float to come out. Inspect the float for leaks, shake it, listen and feel for gas sloshing about in the float. If it's leaky you will need a new one. Take care with it as new are available, but not cheap.

Not super clear, but you can see the tip of the needle. The conical black and gray shape should be all black. Might be why the carb was leaky. This is what shuts off the incoming fuel when the float bowl is full. It will be replaced.

This is the accelerator pump linkage. The part unattached attaches to the throttle shaft with a hairpin clip, pull the clip and it slides out. The attached end has an ear that you must rotate the linkage to pass thru the hole. It is attached to the pump connector link.

Here we see the accelerator pump linkage attached to the throttle shaft. the three holes are to adjust the amount of fuel pumped when you floor the pedal. This is in the the cold weather (most fuel) position.

The main body is attached with three screws. We removed those screws and pulled the main body off the spacer. The gasket here is very wet with fuel. Compare what gasket is there to what is in the kit and not which one you need. We will finish the tear down of the main body later.

There is what I call a spacer between the carb base and the main body. We are down to the base here. The screws that bolt the main body to the base pass through the spacer so the spacer comes off when they are pulled. We see the throttle linkage here no need to pull that apart, but wiggle the shaft vertically and check for play, there will be some but too much will be a vacuum leak and need to be addressed. The base is iron so it doesn't wear like aluminum, this one is fine. We also see the bottom end of the choke connector rod, rotate it so the ear will pass thru the hole and remove it.

The remaining tear down of the base will consist of removing the vacuum fitting and the idle mixture screw. The idle mixture screw has a spring on it to hold it's adjustment. Everything else can remain.

This picture shows the throttle shaft dog which contains the fast idle cam. The curb idle and the fast idle settings both use the same adjustment screw with the fast idle cam increasing the idle speed when the choke is closed. When the dog is rotated to this position it will slide off the mount when you rotate the throttle lever.

You also can see the choke connector rod hole with the "ear" cutout I talked about.

here is the idle mixture screw, unscrew it and take it out. This completes the disasembly of the base.

Here we see the accelerator pump assembly. It pulls straight up out of the main body.

Here we see the accelerator pump well. The pump assembly pulls straight up out of the well.

Here we see the accelerator pump check ball and retainer. The check ball only allows fuel to flow when the pump is used.

We will next remove the fuel inlet fitting and gasket. It will be replaced with the matching one from the kit. This is not a hardware store fitting, it also includes the seat for the needle.

The step up piston assembly is vacuum controlled, when vacuum is high it pulls the assembly down putting the metering rod into the jet leaning out the mixture, usually in cruise. When vacuum goes away the rod pulls out of the jet richening up the mixture, usually at wide open throttle. The threaded part is the idle orifice tube, it controls the air/fuel mix of the idle circuit. It unscrews and lets us pull all the parts out. The hex head with the hole in the middle and a red gasket is the main jet. It will also come out. In my case it was loose.

The step up assembly is pulled out, the large spring shown controls the amount of vacuum needed to retract the rod out of the jet. The small spring on the metering rod allows the rod to seat without binding in the jet.

Both the step up jet and the main jet will come out. New gaskets provided in the kit. 5/16" nutdriver for the main jet.

We've gotten everything out of the fuel bowl area. Inspect for damages or any other issues.

I like to lay things out in an orderly fashion, it helps to keep track of what goes where and what you've already done.

The accelerator pump circuit has it's own jet. This will control the duration of the pump shot. It needs to come out. So we have to pull the plug shown to access the jet.

Using a pair of dykes you lightly grasp the sides of the plug and lever it out. It should come out simply enough. If you have a welch plug you will need to drill a small hole in the center, screw a sheet metal into the hole and pull it out with pliers.

You can see the jet now, the service manual says to take care and use a thin screwdriver to remove it so as to not mess up the threads in the housing.

Take care with the removal.

The jet is out, there is no gasket here. It's been removed for cleaning purposes, as the manual says, if there is a doubt pull it and clean it.

Here's the jet and plug out of the carb.

Soaking the new leather pump plunger in oil. Book calls for a light oil, I guess 10w30 is light. Just let it soak till you are ready for it.

Since I had a leak somewhere I needed to make sure the surfaces were flat. You can do it any number of ways, I used draw filing to knock down any high spots. Just enough to flatten any high spots is all you want.

I found one spot on the base that looked like a ding on the edge, it's flat now. The other parts were flat already.

Simple Green, water and an ultrasonic bath. Cleans things up real nice. Once done I blow out all the passageways with carb cleaner, wear safety glasses.

Time to go over everything, look for any issues and fix it. Here we can see the accelerator pump inlet check ball, it keeps the fuel from going back into the bowl when the pump actuates. The book says to not remove it unless it is necessary, use carb cleaner to blow out the passageways and make sure the ball works. Use safety glasses, carb cleaner in the eye really stings.

You should have already verified which gaskets in the kit you needed. Time to dry fit them and verify they actually fit properly. After all, the guy before you may have used the wrong ones.

Here I mocked up the base to spacer gasket, see the extra tab hanging in the way of the throttle linkage? Wrong gasket.

Here I mocked up the base to spacer gasket, no tab and the gasket clears. The spacer to main body gasket is the same as the spacer to base gasket.

Here I mocked up the main body to air horn gasket. Looks good. note the body is completely stripped here.

This was damaged and needs fixed, a new one is available if you can't fix yours.

I used an extension to flatten out the center and a pair of pliers to remove the oval out of the round retainer. Not perfect but it will work.

The throttle shaft dog performs the function if the idle speed cam. It shows a bit of wear but it is not available new so it is what it is. Not really worn enough to worry about.

Small bits all cleaned up out of the ultrasonic. It works very well, but I had it in for an hour or so at 40C.

you can see the step up link is bent upward, that makes the step up circuit go rich too soon. It will be fixed.

you can see the step up link is now straight, used a pair of needle nosed pliers to unbend it straight at the bend.

New needle next to the old one, you can see the tips. The old needle has some issues with the tip.

Here we have bolted the main body, the spacer and the base together with new gaskets. There are three screws with lock washers holding them together. Start them all first, then snug them up. Once they are snug you can tighten them criss cross style until they are tight, go around several times tightening them till you can no longer tighten them any more using a well fitting screwdriver and your hand.

I also installed the lower part of the choke connector link.

Install the accelerator pump link into the pump connector link and the throttle linkage. the kit comes with several hairpins, in case you lose one. You can see the sandwich the base, spacer and main body make.

We will install the float and float pin, then the fuel inlet fitting and needle. Check the float height and adjust as necessary. Install the accelerator pump assembly and verify maximum pump travel. Next, we will install the step up assembly and the idle orifice tube, check the step up travel. All these checks and the specifications are in the service manual. Finally, install the gasket.

Install the idle mixture screw and spring, hand tighten till lightly seated then back out on turn. Install the vacuum fitting in the base. We have installed the throttle shaft dog and lower part of the choke connector link.

The upper part of the choke connector link needs to be installed into the choke shaft before you bolt the air horn on. You can see the ear on the linkage in this picture. You will then put the four screws in that bolt the air horn to the main body. Again snug them up. Once they are snug you can tighten them criss cross style until they are tight, go around several times tightening them till you can no longer tighten them any more using a well fitting screwdriver and your hand.

Reinstall the pump jets, remember to use a thin screw driver, then install the plug.

Install the accelerator pump linkage, the kit includes a few spare hair pin clips in case yours goes awry. At the upper part of the link you can see the ear and corresponding hole it goes into. the three holes in the arm are to adjust the amount of pump shot with the hole farthest from the shaft pumping the most fuel.

Replace the old carb base gasket with new, place the carb on the studs. Remember to start the outer nut and lock washer first and run it down hand tight. Then do the engine side nut and lock washer. If you do the engine side first you will not have room to install the outer side. Tighten them up once both are installed.

Reattach the throttle linkage, 7/16" for the nut, 5/16" backing wrench for the ball stud.

Reattach the choke linkage using the clip. Check choke adjustment.

All that is left is to fire up the engine, check for leaks, set the idle mixture and idle RPM. Once that is done we can reinstall the air cleaner. Note, there is no air cleaner to carb gasket in the kit.